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REVIEW Menswear


Autumn Winter 2017

 

For AW17 we welcome a number of new brands to our offering. Explore our menswear report focusing on the brands joining LN-CC's buy this season. Newcomers include Mackintosh 001 harbouring technical construction techniques and a functional aesthetic, Martine Rose who challenges perceptions of masculinity to create dynamic non-conforming pieces and American heritage brand Russell Athletic with a selection of luxury sportwear.

 


MARTINE ROSE London


New Wave sensibility


 

The eponymous menswear brand, Martine Rose, launched in 2007. The British designer, having debuted her first collection as part of Fashion East and gained the British Fashion Council’s sponsored NEWGEN Award for her iconic forward-thinking shirting, now designs directional collections that reject conventions of masculinity. Informed by subcultural movements and post-punk icons, Rose reinterprets womenswear staples, deconstructs silhouettes, experiments with proportion and subverts traditional tailoring codes.

Embracing elements of everyday dress codes, Rose looked to the bankers, office workers and bus drivers for her AW17 collection. 80’s style suits are reconstructed, trenches are reworked into halternecks, and the everyday pant is cut super wide whilst signature shirts are fabricated in soft shades of grey, pale yellow and tan hinting at a New Wave sensibility.

 


MAISON MARGIELA Paris


Conceptual artisanial heritage


 

Founding his eponymous fashion House in 1988, Belgian designer Martin Marigela established himself as one of the industry’s most important defining designers of the 20th century. The Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts graduate, a master of reinventive men’s and womenswear, is heralded for his deconstructed, avant-garde tailoring, sculptural garments and ingenious accessories. Upholding the brand’s ‘Haute Couture’ appellation which awarded in 2012, experimental British designer John Galliano, who took the reins in 2014, continues the brand’s poetic and conceptual vision of couture. Galliano’s artisanal collections celebrate the House’s iconoclast heritage and reach new realms of conceptualism with reworked silhouettes, daring cuts, distressed treatments and contemporary tailoring.

As always, the houses’ conceptual deconstructed spirit is channelled into individualistic contemporary pieces for the Autumn/Winter season; denim layered tweed skirts and pants, neck-tied puffer jackets, herringbone-panelled suiting pants and oversized raw-edged knits.

 


FACETASM Tokyo


Multifaceded evolution


 

Tokyo-based label Facetasm was launched in 2007 by Hiromichi Ochiai after graduating from respected design school, Bunka Fashion College. Derivative of the word ‘facet,’ the brand takes a multifaceted approach to design and construction; unexpected elements, strict tailoring and experimental layering. Heavily inspired by Japan’s avant-garde heritage and youth subcultures, Ochiai looks to fuse this with his elevated and sporty freestyle approach. Each collection aims to advance to a new level; constantly evolving rather than developing on previous collection themes resulting in subversive offerings of disruptive designs with an outsider sensibility.

The AW17 collection harnesses a diverse offering of outerwears for both men and women with sliced bombers, down-filled scarves, puffer vests and mufflers. Our selection centres on oversized cuts, layered pieces, flared silhouettes and unexpected elements.

 


RUSSELL ATHLETIC United States


Authentic athleticwear


 

Founded in Alexander City, Alabama USA in 1902 by Benjamin Russell, Russell Vintage was the inventor of the ‘Sweatshirt.’ Russell Manufacturing Co. originally produced ladies undershirts and children’s undergarments before designing the durable cotton sweatshirt inspired by his son, Benjamin Russell Junior, who found his woollen football jersey tops unbreathable and irritable. This change in fabrication revolutionised sportswear teams across the country; by the mid 1990’s Russell Athletic was one of the largest suppliers of sports team uniforms in Major League Baseball, NFL, college and high school sport programs through to little league. With a rich sporting heritage, today, the century-old brand continues to innovate athleticwear with Technical Performance Fleece and Dri-Power Fleece fabrics. Their premium line combines their authentic, high-quality materials with contemporary cuts, updated graphics and flocked embroideries and appliqués.

Our selection for the upcoming season maintains the brand’s considered approach to fabrication with a range of high quality jersey sweaters, t-shirts and track pants alongside logo-printed hooded sweaters and embroidered long sleeved tops.

 


MACKINTOSH 0001 London


Innovation, heritage and function


 

Established in 1823 by Charles Rennie Macintosh, luxury Scottish brand Mackintosh was heralded for their model of technical success with their collection of innovative waterproof, rubberised garments. At the forefront of the Mackintosh 0001 is Bulgarian, Central Saint Martins graduate Kiko Kostadinov; a young designer renowned for his off-kilter pattern cutting, utilitarian approach to design and highly defined silhouettes. Repositioning the brand with a more modern and minimalist edge, Kostadinov fuses the heritage brand’s technical fabrication processes and traditional silhouettes with his own meticulous approach to construction and functional, design-driven aesthetic.