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INTRODUCTION Womenswear


Spring Summer 2017

 

For SS17 we welcome a number of new brands to our offering alongside our conscious collection. Explore our womenswear report introducing some of the highlights of what is to come in the season ahead. From local Hackney-based womenswear brand A.W.A.K.E to NOMIA’s minimalist and feminine practical-wear. ALYX provides an approximation of utilitarian garments, MONIES outlook is on unique and natural forms whilst GmbH offers a collection of sustainably-sourced reconstructed pieces.

 


MONIES Copenhagen


Natural + Raw Materials


 

Founded in 1973 by Gerda and Nikolai Monies, MONIES create handmade objets d’art from natural materials that perfectly balance nature and form. The Danish brand has forged its unique style over the past 40 years to craft refined, avant-garde pieces of jewellery that are sculptural and individual. Working with raw materials such as fossil, shell, bone, horn, petrified wood and stone, MONIES collections are contemporary, bold and exceptional.

This season’s collection includes a selection of sculptured earrings that bring together form, material and texture in a synthesis of elegance and drama. Rounded shapes and circular pendants are crafted from ebony and bone and feature gold leaf finishes. Minimal and distinct, pairs are extraordinarily tranquil.

 


GMBH Berlin


In-House Recycling Programme


 

Rooted in Berlin’s underground techno scene, a diverse community of young collaborators have come together to create GmbH. Founded by Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, the collective brand is informed by local artists, techno music and multiculturalism. The brand’s pragmatic approach to design, fabrication and sustainability sees collections of modern silhouettes crafted from deadstock and reclaimed materials that are sourced from high-end factories in Milan.

The SS17 ‘Girls in Love’ collection is fully fabricated from deadstock fabrics. As always Berlin’s spirit and energy are channelled into the youthful, non-binary and wearable pieces; track pants, re-patched hoodies, cuffed cargo pants, ribbed tops, raw-edged cords and oversized leather jackets in neutral colourways.

 


NOMIA United States of America


Utilitarian Minimalism


 

New York based designer and Oberlin graduate Yara Flinn established her brand NOMIA in 2007 focusing on minimalistic and modern womenswear with a distinct sense of utility. Named after the Greek mermaid, Flinn’s designs embody the nymph’s idiosyncrasies in harmony with her own urban-inflected femininity. Crafted from unconventional fabrics, NOMIA constructs sophisticated garments that balance elements of men’s tailoring with eveningwear. Effortless asymmetric silhouettes, refined architectural cuts and elegant details sit alongside utilitarian pieces with an effortless aesthetic.

Often embracing sportswear elements, SS17 took to the cliffs for their rock-climbing inspired collection. Maintaining their signature elegant aesthetic, utility pieces receive luxe fabrications and refined details; halter jumpsuits in fine wools, cargo pants with silver snaps, zipped pocket skirts with asymmetric wraps and boxy dresses with mesh hems. Peekaboo cut-outs on ribbed knit t-shirts and high-cut slits on one-shouldered dresses add a sense of allure to the active-inspired collection.

 


A.W.A.K.E United Kingdom


All Wonderful Adventures Kindle Enthusiasm


 

Working from within a warehouse studio in Hackney Wick, East London, Alaverdian leads her young brand A.W.A.K.E from the unique perspective of former fashion editor and street style favourite. Russian born and Belgian-raised, Alaverdian launched A.W.A.K.E in 2012, interpreting her own unique narrative from within the womenswear scene; she creates fanciful and carefully deconstructed collections that accentuate and play with tailoring, narrative, femininity and art.

True to the A.W.A.K.E philosophy, the SS17 collection centres on a creature: the jellyfish. Ruffles and pleats are meant to symbolise jellyfish legs, and all the faux leather is responsible for the jellyfish sliminess. There are also transparent plastic elements which sort of stand for the fish tank, and jellyfish's transparency. Our selection includes exaggerated silhouettes, curled hemlines and voluminous shapes alongside oversized, creased stripe shirts, plaid tops and gingham dresses, all finished with raw-cut seams.

 


ALYX United States of America


Weird Approximations of Functional Things


 

Chicago-born, past New York-based, currently Italy-based creative director Matthew M. Williams spent a decade working within the spheres of music, art and fashion before founding his own womenswear brand, ALYX. His various projects within print and digital disciplines combined with his extensive exploration of garment construction have led him to create his own directional and unique philosophy. Informed by his Californian youth and urban subcultures, his collections focus on distinct individualism and refined forms. The label celebrates dynamism with perverse details and an inimitable aesthetic.

New York City – where the brand maintains its roots – was the inspiration for ALYX’s SS17 collection; a tribute to the city’s disorder, eclecticism and hard-edged romance. Key to every ALYX collection is their offering of utilitarian accessories and stand-out footwear and this season was no different with heeled Mary Janes, seatbelt buckled belts and ball chain strap bags. The brand’s modern take on femininity sees boxy leather jackets - made in collaboration with Italian moto brand Spidi – paired with lightweight plissé tops and graphic hoodies.