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REVIEW Womenswear

Autumn Winter 2017


For AW17 we welcome a number of new brands to our offering alongside our conscious collection. Explore our womenswear report introducing some of the highlights of what is to come in the season ahead. From modernist French womenswear brand Jacquemus to Issey Miyake’s innovative and conceptual ready-to-wear whilst PAM provides an approximation of graphic-printed garments.



Minimalist avant-garde


Born in the South of France, Simon Porte Jacquemus established his namesake brand in 2009 focusing on modernist womenswear with a strong sense of shape and spirit. Self-taught, Jacquemus takes a minimalist yet avant-garde approach to his collections; creating muted hued elegant pieces that feature exaggerated volumes, deconstructed forms and geometric cuts. With a regard for off-kilter femininity and youthfulness, Jacquemus’ classic silhouettes maintain an irrepressible Gallic aesthetic.

Embracing his French heritage, Jacquemus’ AW17 collection takes to the South with traditional Provençal-inspired pieces constructed in his signature voluminous aesthetic. Sculpted sleeves, oversized curved sleeves, exaggerated collars, corseted waists, hourglass coats and cantilevered heels capture a harmonious balance between folk and couture.



Conceptual deconstructed spirit


Born in Hiroshima, Issey Miyake first discovered his love for design on the ‘to Create and to Go’ bridges; a poignant juncture where he understood how design had the ability to incite a powerful emotional response. After finishing his graphic design studies at Tama Art University, Miyake went on to work in fashion houses in Paris and New York before returning to Japan and establishing the Miyake Design Studio in 1970. The design studio was preoccupied with innovative processes that combined traditional handcrafts with cutting-edge technology. Based on the concept of “one piece of cloth,” Miyake’s collections explore the fundamental relationship between the body and the cloth that envelopes it. His relentless experimentation and tenacious approach to creation has pushed both the tradition and evolution of design in ready-to-wear. His collections consider the body’s form and movement; developing soft structural pieces that are curious, directional and dynamic.As always, the houses’ conceptual deconstructed spirit is channelled into individualistic contemporary pieces for the Autumn/Winter season; denim layered tweed skirts and pants, neck-tied puffer jackets, herringbone-panelled suiting pants and oversized raw-edged knits.

True to the Issey Miyake philosophy, the AW17 collection focuses on imagination and new technology with computer- generated geometric jacquards, heat-pleated fabrications and sculptural silhouettes. Our selection includes jackets, skirts and dresses cut from technical fabrics and finished with bold neon prints alongside trapezium bags and ridged platform pumps.



Conceptual artisanial heritage


Founding his eponymous fashion House in 1988, Belgian designer Martin Marigela established himself as one of the industry’s most important defining designers of the 20th century. The Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts graduate, a master of reinventive men’s and womenswear, is heralded for his deconstructed, avant-garde tailoring, sculptural garments and ingenious accessories. Upholding the brand’s ‘Haute Couture’ appellation which awarded in 2012, experimental British designer John Galliano, who took the reins in 2014, continues the brand’s poetic and conceptual vision of couture. Galliano’s artisanal collections celebrate the House’s iconoclast heritage and reach new realms of conceptualism with reworked silhouettes, daring cuts, distressed treatments and contemporary tailoring.

As always, the houses’ conceptual deconstructed spirit is channelled into individualistic contemporary pieces for the Autumn/Winter season; denim layered tweed skirts and pants, neck-tied puffer jackets, herringbone-panelled suiting pants and oversized raw-edged knits.



Multifaceded + experimental


Tokyo-based label Facetasm was launched in 2007 by Hiromichi Ochiai after graduating from respected design school, Bunka Fashion College. Derivative of the word ‘facet,’ the brand takes a multifaceted approach to design and construction; unexpected elements, strict tailoring and experimental layering. Heavily inspired by Japan’s avant-garde heritage and youth subcultures, Ochiai looks to fuse this with his elevated and sporty freestyle approach. Each collection aims to advance to a new level; constantly evolving rather than developing on previous collection themes resulting in subversive offerings of disruptive designs with an outsider sensibility.

The AW17 collection harnesses a diverse offering of outerwears for both men and women with sliced bombers, down-filled scarves, puffer vests and mufflers. Our selection centres on oversized cuts, layered pieces, flared silhouettes and unexpected elements.


P.A.M Melbourne

Celebrating life and creativity


Husband-and-wife design duo Perks and Mini, which are Misha “Perks” Hollenbach and Shauna “Mini” Toohey in person, founded Melbourne based lifestyle brand in 2000. Based in Melbourne, Australia the renowned cult label produces clothing, screen printed products, books and mixes. The graphic driven label creates innovative and forward thinking pieces that pay excessive attention to construction. With a range of fluid cuts and captivating prints, the label aims to show a kind of celebration of life and creativity whilst maintaining an element of intelligence that doesn’t detach itself too far from reality.