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IN FOCUS 005: Maison Margiela


Founding his eponymous fashion House in 1988, Belgian designer Martin Marigela established himself as one of the industry’s most important defining designers of the 20th century. The Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts graduate, a master of reinventive womenswear, is heralded for his deconstructed, avant-garde tailoring, sculptural garments and ingenious accessories. Upholding the brand’s ‘Haute Couture’ appellation which awarded in 2012, experimental British designer John Galliano, who took the reins in 2014, continues the brand’s poetic and conceptual vision of couture. Galliano’s artisanal collections celebrate the House’s iconoclast heritage and reach new realms of conceptualism with reworked silhouettes, daring cuts, distressed treatments and contemporary tailoring.

As always, the houses’ conceptual deconstructed spirit is channeled into individualistic contemporary pieces for the Pre-Autumn/Winter season; silhouettes and details take note from a range of archival pieces, updating and refreshing with a sense of nostalgia. Oversized crisp poplin shirting is juxtaposed against creased satins and varsity ribbed knits that deconstruct and re-create an ongoing directional aesthetic.