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“I imagined this collection as if it were a treasure hunt,” Francesco Risso explained after his second women’s catwalk show for Marni back in September 2017. Providing one of the most memorable moments of that Milan show season, his spring/summer 18 collection celebrated the beauty of hidden treasures and combined an immersive playfulness that has since become a signature of his reimagined Marni. “The collection talks about a continuous search on beauty, like an archaeologist who scavenge in a trunk full of objects, exploring them or magnifying them,” he continued. As LN-CC continues its ARCHIVE series, we do the searching for you and encourage you to explore this trunk show of beauty once more.
From the moment he replaced Consuelo Castiglioni at the helm of the off-kilter luxury label that she built, the Sardinia-born, CSM-educated, Miuccia Prada-trained creative director has personified the fresh energy and sense of excitement that has revived Milan in recent years. His Marni is youthful, unexpected, thought provoking and fun, and this collection took us deeper inside his imagination.
Marni spring/summer 18 evolved from a doodle Francesco drew during lunch with his boyfriend Lawrence Steele of a skater dressed in 1920s languor, with silhouette shifted by an awkwardness of volumes. From this doodled daydream, a multitude of women revealed themselves as they skated through a multitude of worlds, In Francesco’s daydreams, they played, dissected, adopted, and adapted everything from post-World War 1 couture through to slouching skaters, flappers and ravers. A joyful and spontaneous rifle through trunks full of beautiful objects, from 50s bathing suits and dressing gowns to oversize polo shirts, sumptuous skirts and impalpable slip dresses.
Cutting, pasting and manipulating this sense of dress-up, Francesco imbued a playfulness and inquisitiveness throughout, exposing seams and toiles, fraying hems, distorting prints, inverting proportions, and distressing fabrics. As demure furry shoes walked beside sturdy Wellingtons, fragile silks brushed against compact knits, and utilitarian checks mixed with charming florals, the unexpected, and seemingly impossible harmony that emanated from this cacophony of clashes combined to truly reveal Francesco Risso’s Marni; experimental, eccentric, enigmatic, exciting, engaging… everything.
As we travel back to this moment in fashion’s not-too-distant past, LN-CC invited London-based photographer Ottilie Landmark to shoot Zarina Shukri wearing the finest finds from the treasure hunt.
Photography: Ottilie Landmark,@OttilieLandmark
Model: Zarina Shukri, @zarinashukri