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From the moment the Milan-based outerwear specialist first unveiled Moncler 1952 as part of its Genius project – an explosion of creative energy that initially saw eight designers reimagine its iconic down-filled outerwear – back in 2018, its focus has been on reimagining Moncler for a new generation. While the Genius line-up has since evolved, Sergio Zambon and Veronica Leoni have remained as a constant, forever reimagining the archive, adopting new technologies and pushing possibilities.
Taking its name from the year in which the outerwear specialist was established in a small village in the Haute Savoie mountains, 2 Moncler 1952 is continually reflective of the form and function at the heart of the brand, but redefines and repositions it in the context of the present and near-future. For its spring/summer 21 menswear collection, Egypt-born multitasker Sergio Zambon presents a revolving kaleidoscope of reference while inviting us to pause. While the collection itself transports us to the heights of the French alps and the shores of Cape Cod, the call for contemplation resonates absolutely anywhere in our global pandemic dominated reality. Of course, most of us would swap Dalson for an actual scenic vista but we can at least daydream thanks to these designs. Presenting an enlightened take on Moncler classics, the season’s much-needed sense of purified utility is warmed by jubilant shades of Indian saffron, royal purple and malachite grounded in soft neutrals. As touches of subtle psychedelia meet moments of fully-fledged Moncler material innovation, the 1952 man goes where the forest (and the mountain) meets the sea. Musing on outdoor pursuits near and far, this springtime uniform is personified by hybrid archetypes from the neo-hippie to the weekend hiker, and even the casual gardener. Anything and anywhere but lockdown.
Similarly, the 2 Moncler 1952 women’s collection designed by Veronica Leoni provides a serene and luminous proposition that softens utility with a womanly allure while inviting us to escape, this time to the ocean. For spring/summer 21, the Rome-born, Jil Sander and old Céline-trained talent takes tenets of performance clothing before relaxing and reworking them into new volumes and elevated with a tonal palette from chalky white and blush tones to pale seafoam, suffusing the collection with an urbane, nautical simplicity. Sculptural shapes are grounded in realism, with decoration reduced to practical elements like cotton rope ties, fishnet mesh and drawstrings that adapt the silhouette to a woman’s everyday reality. Tactile surfaces build from the crisp and matte textures of cotton canvas and washed silk to the sleek shine of Moncler’s nylon laqué, creating parkas, cropped duffels and trench coats with dropped shoulders, curved drawstring hemlines and ballooning ‘folk’ sleeves. Elsewhere, quilting is treated with a summer hand; from light diamond stitching paneled into a poplin shirt or zipped into an A-line skirt to a technical hood built into a classic raglan raincoat. Underpinning a wide array of Moncler outerwear pieces, knits hug the body in fine-gauge rib, chunky Breton stripes and check crochet in effortless shapes from tube skirts and short-sleeve cotton sweaters to sinuous cashmere cardigans and fluid mock-necks. Crossbody nylon-frame pouches and puffy bolster bags play nylon against soft nappa leather and looped zipper pulls, as raw-cut leather sandals ground the pure silhouette.
Both collections serve as a reminder of the world beyond the four-walls we have grown tired of being confined within. One day again, hopefully soon, we can all safely explore this world.