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“We want to strip down the bullshit of the industry,” Guram Gvasalia explained back in January in the moments after the lookalike-casted Vetements autumn/winter 20 show, the first without his brother Demna Gvasalia beside him. “Somehow in fashion the spotlight went away from the clothes,” he added, “and for me this is why people like Margiela are so iconic because he never appeared and it was always about the clothes.” Then, now and forever – as the etymology and translations of its name implies – it’s always been about the clothes for Vetements.
Since its launch in 2014, Vetements has continually challenged fashion from the inside out. Before the Zurich-based collective began dismantling the industry’s exclusionary structures to stimulate deep thought around fashion’s status quo and future by challenging the fashion calendar and throwing real-fake market pop-ups, they were creating Frankenstein-ing vintage denim, manipulating logomania 2.0, igniting imaginations with reworked staples and provoking smiles with tongue-in-cheek slogans. Six years on and ever-evolving, there’s no stopping Vetements. Against the backdrop of a global pandemic that has paused most realities, Vetements has been busy delivering surprise drops and releasing “limited editions”. As one of the latest T-shirts teases, “Keeping up with the Gvaslias” is no easy task, but more akin to its KUWTK E! cable network counterpart than the original Joneseses idioms, we just can’t get enough. Why? Because these clothes are what we need, they're merch for a version of reality that we want to escape inside. As we crawl to the end of a punishing 2020, who doesn’t want to ride a rainbow with a magic unicorn or shield themselves from the elements while showing their true inner self with a transparent-rubber hooded raincoat? To celebrate the latest drop, LN-CC invited an insta cast set of faces to test the force. Hold on to something as Vetements turn the dial.
Photography: Raphael Bliss,@raphaelbliss
Models: Izzy, Dan, Delanna, Lizzi, Max and Cane