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“Fashion and luxury, for us at least, is about craftsmanship, an artistic way of thinking,” Glenn Martens reminded us back in January. From the moment he replaced the late Yohan Serfaty at Y/Project, the Bruges-born former Gaultier Junior designer turned a label in mourning into one of Paris’ most dynamic forces. Throughout the last seven years and beyond, Glenn and his growing team have walked the tightrope of taste and pushed possibilities. Their Y/Project has continually transformed the familiar into the unexpected with ingeniously off-kilter constructions that challenge our preconceptions of how garments should look and how they should be worn.
Following his unveiling as Diesel’s new creative director, all eyes were on Glenn Martens for autumn/winter 21. Whether unaffected or encouraged by the attention, he turned Y/Project upto 11. With 64-looks of wearable chaos for men and women that blurred the ordinary and the absurd, the collection was a celebration of Y/Project’s metamorphosis. Indeed, the show notes described it as “the brand’s evolution to an established house in the Parisian fashion landscape.” Established, certainly. Dull, never.
In 4 of the 64-looks, we were treated to the first look at the sophomore release of Y/Project’s on-going collaboration with Canada Goose. Building on the unexpected twists on staple outerwear that saw asymmetric and extended collars, pulled linings, and upside-down patter construction of the debut capsule, this season’s playful proportions and technical trickery blurred the line between performance and luxury even more. Only Glenn Martens could reimagine an iconic Canada Goose style as a cape. While staying true to the technical craftsmanship and functionality of the extreme weather outerwear specialist, this considered collaboration imbues Y/Project design signatures to elevate the extreme and underline fun in functional.