Establishing his namesake label in 1994, Californian Rick Owens has gathered an extraordinary cult following with his directional gothic aesthetic, pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion with his avant-garde creations. His glamorous grunge collections are centered on luxury leather pieces, interesting tailoring, severe shapes and a moody monochrome palette. Owens is renowned for directional dressing with an urban edge; mastering darkened elegance allows his collections a timeless sense of luxury.
Entering the uncharted territory of male nudity, Rick Owens AW15 ‘Sphinx’ collection cut peepholes into elongated tunics and capes exposing bare everything underneath. For the eponymous designer nudity is the simplest gesture of expressing power. Curved hemlines and deconstructed garments shifted uniform silhouettes to something undone whilst warped forms hinted at today’s societal ideas of gender sartorial boundaries. The reactionary pieces were shown alongside graphic printed dresses, panelled puffa jackets and classic military-style pea coats. Playing with different volumes and fabrics, coats featured exaggerated side seam cuts resulting in tent-like shapes in Owens’ signature dark, monochrome palette.
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Standard - EUR 15 - 2/4 BD
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