MARNI DRAWS A LINE FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 23
A NUCLEAR FUSION OF LINEARITY, TAILORING AND INCANDESCENT QUIRK
When creative director Francesco Risso unveiled Marni’s Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, he did so by covering the arena of Tokyo’s Yoyogi National Gymnasium in crisp white paper, setting a blank slate for his colour-rich geometric expression of simplicity.
Mixing music with maths, straight lines and square checks beat out a clean rhythm of stark singularity counterbalanced by off-piste details. The result is an energetic hallucination of real-life clothes.
“Rhythm, dot, line, field. Line, dot, field, proportion, motion. There’s rhythm again” - Marni
In Marni’s irreverent worldview, minimalism is an optical illusion saturated in hues that swing from hot plasma to pitch-dark obsidian. Graphic black strokes form a gridlocked safety net across fuzzy mohair sweaters and hairy slip-on mules.
The new algorithm collides with proportion, as bulbous jackets balance atop svelte pants and create an inflated cocoon around lightweight knits. Playful but ever practical, Marni imagines a chequered collection that radiates the joy of a fresh start.