A TOUCH OF SPECTACLE 

Looking towards romance and nuanced aesthetic codes, alexanderwang recontextualized the gravitas of the nocturnal for Autumn/Winter 2023. The 58-look collection included womenswear and a relaunch of menswear, housed by a runway with a double-heart-shaped design, zebra print flooring, dramatic lighting, and pink drapes to enclose it all in. A red-light display throbbed in the shape of a heart as if it was frantically beating. 

Empowered, sexy, and a bit irreverent, the three-in-one showcase proved that Wang’s signature style – a blend of sleek design imbued with a streetwear soul – is still very much alive. Nuances of classic menswear and sportswear are redefined in new fabrications and fits, evoking an elevated wearability from day to night. Ultra-feminine silk fringed styles hang from sheer net foundations and heart-shaped bodices, revealing as much as they conceal. 

Taking inspiration from Wang Kar Wei’s In the Mood for Love and 2046, the collection presents high-octane formalism imbued with irony. Python-embossed overalls and separates, sheer separates revealing glimpses of lingerie, and oversized suit jackets and vests injected a touch of spectacle to inform this aesthetic. Dramatized details with wet-look crystal beading applique, platform mules, and silver grommet studded bags embody an elevated toughness. 

Romantic but cool, boudoir-inspired creations are photographed on a red carpet with added pink and red ombré lighting. The autumn/winter collection emphasizes the juxtaposition of masculine and feminine, opposing elements challenging typical power dynamics such as rigid and soft, bold and subtle, retro and modern. Stacked old-school TV screens play on a loop, dramatically emphasizing the model’s movements and projecting an added dimension to the campaign. Encoded with stark contrasts, autumn/winter 23 explores the nocturnal within a new framework.