THE ROW: THE ART OF MAKING CLOTHES
WHILE SOME COLLECTORS SPECIALISE IN IMPRESSIONISM AND OTHERS IN ART NOUVEAU, ASHLEY AND MARY-KATE DEAL IN DISCRETION. JOIN A MASTERCLASS IN RESTRAINT AS THE ROW DEBUTS AT LN-CC FOR SPRING/SUMMER 23.
In 2006 luxury developed a new denomination, essentialism. Defined by a lack of decoration and the absence of excess, The Row collections arrive without fanfare and pomp. Choosing instead minimalist silhouettes in a pared back palette to honour indulgent fabrics and precision tailoring.
With excess comes distraction; sweeping use of bold colour and intricate print draws the eye away from a misplaced dart or crooked seam. If The Row had a motto, it would surely include rigour and bravery because the simpler the garment, the more obvious the imperfections. Spoiler, there are none.
The pursuit of perfection began with a t-shirt. A universal basic of humble cotton jersey cut from a four or five-piece pattern with a similar number of seams, except when Ashley and Mary-Kate design it. The first garment crafted by The Row, a silky supple tee with a single French seam bisecting the back, was simple but undeniably luxurious, carefully designed to avoid unflattering bunching or rippling.
It is a bold statement to choose a name inspired by London’s legendary suit-making district, home of the dinner jacket and world-renowned for impeccable tailoring. But since its inception, Saville Row’s New York seedling has emulated its namesake’s fastidious attention to detail and generated its own reputation for excellence with subtle reinterpretations of timeless architecture.
BANTELLE DRESS IN SILK. FLOOR-LENGTH BIAS-CUT SLIP DRESS IN MATTE SILK CADY WITH DELICATE BACK DRAPING AND THIN STRAPS THAT CONNECT AT THE BACK.
– THE ROW
After 17 years, The Row’s uncompromising commitment to honest functional beauty is its calling card. While even the oldest houses sway and arch with the trends du jour, the label has been steadfast in its perspective; painstakingly redefining the codes of minimalism to forge a new pathway. The world quickly followed, attempting to encapsulate this irreverent take on contemporary classics with slogans that barely do it justice. In conceptualising the core wearable part of the wardrobe, The Row has proven to be prophetic.
Photographer: Benedict Brink, @benedictbrink Stylist/Set Designer: Pierre-Alexandre Fillaire, @pafillaire Hair and Make Up: Keia Morrison, @keiatamsin Talent: Hakima, @hakima_duot at @mandpmodels; Fausto at @namedmodels